All love and deliciousness at 10 Downing tonight. No dissing or discriminating! Pure appreciation. However, if you're thinking, there sure are a lot of microgreens, you would be right. There were a lot of microgreens.

A riot of earthly pleasures. Multi-colored, pen cap-sized carrots, brussels sprout leaves, fingerling potatoes, brown butter, oro antico cheese, perhaps some sort of zest or flower petals, ready for takeoff.

Roasted baby beet "tart" on toasted brown lavosh cracker, oblong radish slices, goat cheese and aged balsamic. There was something sly about this ... the slippery pop of the beets, the cloudy puff of the goat cheese. Ever so familiar and very beautiful.

Tartare duo of ahi tuna & salmon belly with mint, serrano, anaheim, pine nuts, sesame oil, and taro chips. Honestly I don't know if that is really the dish. That is just what was online. I actually think it's something different. I do know the dish was a duo of fish, with a talc-like cheese and inky balsamic. A silken vehicle for the toppings and binders.

I cannot resist a beef tartare. This one is with quail egg, lemon, truffle oil aioli and brioche toasts. I also detected something prickly, like horseradish. LIke all good tartares, there was something elegant and savage about this that I liked very much.

A house specialty: suckling pig confit with brussels sprouts, kimchi and butternut squash. It looks like cornbread, but it tasted like a square of pulled pork cake, bruleed (with all skin fat rendered), and politely luxuriating in its own juice.

Duck breast, foie gras, lentils, spinach, and some anise-y sauce. I loved straddling the line between robust French bistro and aromatic Asian. The crusty foie brought it all together with a funky bass note.

Classic spiced carrot cake, candied baby carrots, carrot puree, vanilla bean ice cream. This had a few tricks up its sleeve. The cake and frosting had a very dry, firm architecture that demanded a forkdrag through the airy ice cream and syrupy puree. The candied bits were fun, too... sort of hard and crumbly, like streusel.